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RE: Slow leak under black tank area
Cut 3 sides of a square out in the plastic material with a utility knife in the area you are working. Pull in down and fold/bend it out of your way. When done, push it back up in place, clean the seam area with a lacquer thinner or any solvent to remove road grime an tape your seams with duct tape.
You can also go to Lowes and get a piece of 1X6 trim casing. You will find this with the garage trim and brick mold. For lack of a better discription all of the trim in this section of Lowes looks like it is made out of white plastic. Anyway, it is not wood and therefore will not rot. Rip the material in half and use it as a firing strip to go behind the the plastic sheeting on the inside of the belly. Attach with self cuting metal lathe screws thru the plastic and into your firing strip backer board. Finally use duct tape or Geocel Rv sealant on the outside seam. The firing strip will give you support and the tape or sealant will make it water tight.
When I need to access my underbelly I would not even thing about trying to remove the original screws and take that stuff down in full sheets while laying on my back on the ground. I have been under Jayco Eagle in several different places to replace the black tank flusher nozle, install JT's stabilizers and to work on the entry steps.
Hope this helps
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LEC
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11/02/08 05:44am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: 2003 Dodge 2500 transmissions..
Looking back through TDR, if I am reading this correctly, all 2003's that came with an auto had the 47RE. The 305/555 HO engine came with a 6 speed manual and the SO engines came with the 5 speed manual.
From 2004 up until 2007.5 all auto's used the 48RE and all manuals were 6 speeds. In 2007.5 the switched over to the 6 speed auto.
Hope this helps.
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LEC
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10/27/08 05:28am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Front axle appears to be curved slightly
On most 2005 to 2007 Jayco Eagle TT's I have seen with 6 lug 5200# Dexter axles the front and rear axles are the same. Maybe, Jayco did actually use 2 different axles on yours.
Look close at the 3 spring hangers on one side. You may well see that the front and rear ones are the same length and the center hanger is about 1" longer. This 1" conbined with a 4" tall equalizer, instead of the std. 2" one, makes the front axle lower at the rear by leaning backwards and the rear axle lower at the front by leaning foward.
This tilting of the axles before and past top dead center sometimes can make it a little harder to see the upward bend in the axles since they are offset.
The reason Jayco did this way was to gain clearance between the top of the tire and the floor of the trailer. A better option would have been to replace the 2X2" subframe they weld to the bottom of their I beam chassis with a bigger one. On the other hand, I am not really suprised, as the difference between using longer hangers and equalizers is say $10 at their cost structure versus the cost of a larger piece of steel for the subframe.
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LEC
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10/23/08 05:59am |
Travel Trailers
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Jayco Entegra Floorplans Available For View
Just noticed the Jayco Entegra site now has floorplans and specs listed on their new 5th wheels and class A's.
Click here.
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LEC
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10/14/08 06:44am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Lost turn signal and brake light on left side...
The only way to fix this problem is to get a new circuit board/fuse panel from Dodge.
The truck's wiring is fine. If you had a problem with the harness between the fuse panel and the 7 way plug you would have several other problems occuring as it is all contained in 1 large cable that runs to the back on the truck through at least 4 connectors. I know because I tested the left turn wires through each connector on the wiring diagram to isolate it back to the fuse panel/circuit board.
There are no external relays that can be swapped. As I said this was a dumb solution for Dodge to implement
Too bad it is not covered under the 7/70 power train warrenty since the 3/36 has expired.
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LEC
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10/14/08 06:31am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Lost turn signal and brake light on left side...
It has been a couple of years since I had this exact same problem. I have the same year model truck as you except it is a diesel.
I don't have the wiring diagrams handy at this time, but the turn signals on the 7 way plug do not use a fuse you can replace. They use a relay that is built on to the circuit board mounted under the fuse panel located at the left front fender. I assume this is where you have been checking for blown fuses.
This ranks up there as one of the most stupid things Dodge did with these trucks. The end result is you have to replace the entire fuse panel and circuit board which comes as 1 assembly from Dodge. I think I seem to remember the parts cost being about a $175 at the time.
After I replaced the panel/board I put an inline fuse on each turn signal circuit, at the rear of the truck, near where the wiring harness connects to the 7 way plug. So far, no more blown fuses or relays on either turn signal curcuit.
I know this is not what you wanted to hear, but hope it helps. If you go to any of the Dodge Cummins sites and research this problem you will see that it has actually occured a number of times. BTW, you can order a service manual on CD from Geno's Garage for the Dodge trucks. This manual is priceless when you are trying to trouble shoot a problem.
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LEC
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10/13/08 12:14pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: New Wheel ???
Try here.
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LEC
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09/30/08 04:29am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Talking myself out of 19.5's
Here is my 2 cents worth.
Looking at the picture of your rig, if it were an SRW then I would say yes you need them.
As long as you are under the front and rear axle ratings, loaded to go camping, with your DRW then I probably would not do it and keep the wheel $ for other uses.
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LEC
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09/22/08 04:35am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: New Jayco High End Unit - Any Info?
Goto RV Direct's site and look up fifth wheels under the Jayco Legacy. Will give you a some info on it's available options for the 1 model listed. No pictures or std. features listed the last time I checked.
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LEC
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09/07/08 04:51am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Using Eternabond on seams as preventive measure
Do it. If you don't and you have a problem with a roof leak then it will most likely be your fault, according to Jayco, since you did not keep up your routine maintenace on the coach.
I have put Eternabond on my 2005 Eagle TT. Basically, wherever 2 materials meet, on the roof, has been covered with Eternabond. Next, a bead on Dicor was added to all seams and edges where the Eternabond makes contact. BTW you can get it in 2" and 4" widths.
Also be sure to check the horizonal and vertical surfaces on all lights, windows, doors, vents, drip caps, etc. On these surfaces I have applied Geocel Proflex sealant.
Water will destroy a rig. Thie stuff is not rocket science and I feel every hour you spend on PM now is probably worth at least 2 days + fixing the damage from a leak down the road.
Good luck
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LEC
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08/28/08 05:47am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Battery?
I only use full hookup sites and always try to keep a fully charged battery for the reasons mentioned above.
Also you will need it, along with some water in the fresh tank, should the CG lose power say due to a electrical storm for a few hours or even overnite for that manner.
It will keep the refrig, water pump and lights operational while you are "roughing it". With fresh water on board you still have the use of your toilet. Going to the bath house to use the toilets or wash up may not work very well if the CG is on well water with a pump and does not have a backup electrical generator.
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LEC
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08/12/08 05:15am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Aftermarket stabilizers and Camping World
Call JT's direct and talk to the owners that developed their system. They will be glad to discuss your application with you. They are a great bunch of people to work with.
They also have some drawings on their site that may help you in determining what needs to be done to install them.
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LEC
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08/08/08 05:15am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Hitchhiker Wheel Upgrade
This will give you some info to get started. I am using their Series 06 wheels on Dexter axles because it is a lot easier to get to the grease caps and and axle nuts if you need to w/o removing the wheel.
Hope this helps.
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LEC
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07/25/08 06:00am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: sway trouble, I need some insight
Pete, FYI, I have the same OEM brand/size wheel/tire combo on a Dodge 2500 SRW SWB truck. I run the tires at 60/70 loaded towing a 9800# trailer with a 1450# tongue wght. The trailer sets level to 1/2" down in the nose and I am using a 1400# Equal-i-zer hitch. I have never had the problems with mine you are describing.
I think I would go back through the hitch set up procedure again.
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LEC
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07/25/08 04:31am |
Towing
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RE: No Perfect Trailer Tires out there
Jim is right on ST tires. Look at the casing of one and it will say something like "for trailer use only". There is a reason for that statement branded on the sidewall and it not because is better then an LT or a P series tire. They are simply the cheapest tire that that can be installed on the trailer when it is built.
The last thing I will say is I will never by any RV with ST tires or 15" wheels again. It will be either 16" or 17.5".
Good luck with your decision.
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LEC
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07/23/08 06:51am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Equalizer Question
SETenn, are you having a problem with the left (driver) side or the right (curb)side?
I would guess it is the right side.
What I did was a couple of things. On the left side push the L Bracket forward while tighting. On the right side push the L Bracket to the rear while tighting. Any initial movement in the L bracket will be in the direction so it only tightens the L Bracket that much more. Think of the L Bracket as a nut on a bolt. When viewed from the backside, from the inside of the trailer tongue, the only way the bracket can turn is in a clockwise direction which only tightens it more.
The next thing I did was get a course tread grade 8 bolt and nut to replace their set screw with. If I remember correctly it is somewhere in the 5/8" to 3/4" size and about an inch longer then their set screw. Take the set screw to the hardware store and match it up. Install the nut on the bolt and then tighten the bolt into their bracket and outside link plate. Last, run the nut up against the link plate and tighten while holding the bolt. This will keep the bolt from ever backing off on you.
Anyway, mine no longer moves. Hope this helps
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LEC
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07/23/08 06:38am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: No Perfect Trailer Tires out there
Don't waste your money or time on Titans. They are more of the same garbage and problems you are already dealing with. I know, been there and paid the price last year for it.
A lot of people on here have switched to Maxxis 15" ST tires over the last year. During the next year or so the verdict should be in on how they are holding up when they get a little age on them.
IMHO the only way to solve this problem once and for all is to go with a 16" E rated LT tire like the Michelin XPS or its Bridgestone couterpart. Go to a tire store and look at one of them, pick it up, compare its construction and weight to any ST tire on the market. A blind person can see the differences between the two.
Having said this, I realize you need new rims and must have the space available to allow for at least another 1/2" in tire height inside the wheel well. You need about 3" of travel space available between the floor and the top of the tire and 1" of space between the two tires when you are done. If you do not have this space available, then you may have to look at flipping the axles to gain the needed space. Of course, all this requires spending money on a trailer that you first have to decide is worth the investment considering its age, usefullness and how long you plan to keep it. If I stayed with 15" tires, today, I would go with the E rated Maxxis radials and figure on replacing them in 3 years if I still have the trailer. There just are not any real good choices in 15" tires, available on the market, that will work on trailers.
Good luck with your decision
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LEC
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07/23/08 05:06am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Lots of wires behing J sofa in Jayco
I just looked at your floor plan. You have the couch and table in a slide out just like mine on the Eagle 322FKS.
The wires coming up through the floor behind the couch are to feed the 12V and 110V receptibles you have mounted in the slide out. From the floor they go into the outside "vertical" wall and travel to the ceiling to provide 12V power to your overhead lights. On mine, I also have a 110V plug mounted in the wall under the table.
The floor is the only route they can follow to power their slide outs.
Hope this helps some.
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LEC
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07/22/08 07:05am |
Tech Issues
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RE: I need help with my P3 Controller
I have the P3 mounted in a Dodge Cummins pulling a 9800# Jayco TT.
The following readings are with the engine off, the cord attached to the trailer and the maximum gain set to 12.
Both battery and stop light voltages are in the 12 volt range similar to your readings. With the lever manually pulled the output voltage reads about 11.6 to 11.8 and the amp current reads in the 10.7 to 10.9 range.
BTW, I can only lock the trailer wheels if I apply the lever at say 3 to 5 MPH on dirt, never on pavement. This is the same way my previous Prodigy worked with this truck/trailer.
Next time you get around someone with a P3 you might want to swap controllers with each other and see what the effect is on both rigs.
If you find out there is a problem with the P3 then let us know.
Hope this helps some.
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LEC
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07/22/08 06:20am |
Towing
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RE: Where to get extra Equalizer Washers?
Grade 8 flats, bolts, nuts and lock washers work just fine. That is what Equal-iz-er uses anyway on their 1400# hitch. The other models used to all use grade 5 hardware.
I found on the flat washers to try to pick out a few with different thickness from the bin. Might help some if you need to work in 7 or 8 of them on rivit pin.
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LEC
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07/22/08 05:51am |
Towing
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